![]() ![]() The obvious lesson: Treat everyone, including those working for you, like human beings rather than disposable assets. The story remains available at Andalusia’s Mountain Federation site. Quesada then deleted her posts on the topic. She tried to counter the attacks by alleging that the porter was actually not sick and was only pretending, to get more money. Apparently, the porter carried an extra oxygen canister for her.Īudiences accused the climber of a lack of ethics, even humanity, for leaving a sick worker waiting in the Death Zone for hours. He allegedly felt sick, she said.īesides the unlikelihood of being alone among nearly 150 other climbers who summited on that day, Quesada faced a spectacular backlash when she reported that she told the porter to wait for her at 8,300m until she returned from the summit, in case she needed him during the descent. She bragged that she had summited K2 “alone” on July 22, because her porter stopped at 8,300m. On Spanish-speaking forums, a heated controversy recently erupted over comments made by Lina Quesada. This year on K2, two climbers died in accidents, while Afghan climber Ali Akbar Sakhi perished from AMS near Camp 3.įinally, it should go without saying that local porters have the same rights as anyone else. Their guides’ primary responsibility is toward them, so they cannot just abandon their professional obligations to launch rescues. Mainly, most clients are not skilled enough to help others. Ground teams are often not available.Īlso, the era when a handful of climbers pitched in during emergencies on the mountain is over. Besides, the steep Karakoram peaks, especially K2, make long-line rescues difficult. Helicopters are not as available here as in Nepal. Likewise, Pakistan could use an official rescue service, not only for paying clients but also for local porters and climbers. Lesson #2: Sustainable climbing strategiesįrame from the viral video by Mingma G, showing a long line of climbers below the precarious Great Serac on K2, July 22, 2022. In particular, it is hypocritical for climbers to make all the right noises about climate change and sustainability, then be selectively blind to a problem that they are worsening. If instead of applause, climbers receive criticism for leaving the mountain in such a state, they may end up deciding that it is not worth paying tens of thousands of dollars to climb a garbage heap, only to be slagged when they succeed. High-altitude climbing is motivated both by self-reward and external recognition. The future of the very industry is at stake. Up in the thin air, only the climbers themselves decide if they are going to do something about garbage. But they will be able to remove only a fraction of what has been accumulating for years. This year, it also sent a group of porters to retrieve trash. Indeed, the Central Karakoram National Park already provides a cleaning service. “I think solutions exist to fix many of these problems,” Sarah Strattan wrote. Which rope is safe and which is not? A dangerous dilemma in K2’s House Chimney.
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